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Find the right fit for proper sports bra support

April 23, 2008

By Susan Hemmingway
Media General News Service

The first sports bra was actually two jock straps sewn together by a trio of female friends at the University of Vermont in 1977. 

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They named their invention the Jogbra and went on to refine the design, found a company and eventually become rich. The Jogbra revolutionized undergarments for a new wave of female runners who wanted to keep the bounce in workouts where it belonged - in their steps, not their breasts.

More than 30 years later, the choices and technology in sports bras have left the early Jogbras in the dust. Buyers can pick from various styles, sweat-sopping fabrics and sizes. They can choose a sports bra based on whether it will be worn in Pilates class or a marathon race. Even a woman sized triple-D can find a sports bra that promises to make her bounce-proof.

Nike’s Revolutionary Support Bra and similar sports bras are seamless because of fabric that molds to a woman’s shape through body heat. Some sports bras, such as the NuMetrix HeartBra, come equipped with a snap-in heart monitor.

“Sports bras have come a long way - more than people realize,” says Erin Mullen, manager of Dillard’s lingerie department at International Plaza in Tampa.

Sports bras differ from regular bras by restraining the breasts from excessive motion during exercise. It’s not only because of the fabric, usually a blend of Lycra, nylon and spandex, but also the design. Sports bras have wider shoulder straps that won’t slip and a wide bottom band that should fit snugly without taking your breath away.

Especially in larger cup sizes, sports bras can have a supportive inner bra with non-stretch molded cups, knit-in under-cup panels and hidden side panels. These aren’t supposed to be harnesses, despite the engineering. Sports bras are meant to be comfortable and allow free range of motion.

And sports bras can be just plain cute - made for showing off when the weather is blazing and it feels better to run down Bayshore Boulevard without a T-shirt. Nike’s spring line includes a sports bra in fuchsia, with matching visor and running shirt.

With so many choices, Mullen recommends an important first step in buying the best sports bra for you: Know your bra size.

Some sports bras come in the generic small, medium and large. But many are sized like regular bras for a more precise fit. They are made in the familiar combination of chest width - indicated by the number (34, 36 and so on) and cup size (such as A, B and C).

Look for sports bras on the Internet, where companies such as Title Nine offer extensive selections, or in specialty running stores, department stores and big-box stores such as Target.

Prices tend to range from less than $15 to more than $70. Small women are more likely to be able to wear the bargain bras. Full-busted women may have to pay full freight because of extra features in a well-made larger-sized bra.

“Here’s what I’ve found with my own students,” says Bonnie Stein, a longtime racewalking instructor in Pinellas County. “If you are sort of average size - A through C cups - you’re going to be fine with most sports bras. If you are a D cup or above, you’ll probably need to go to a way-more-expensive sports bra.”

Stein, 53, bought her first sports bra - the Jogbra - in the early 1980s. Today, she keeps a cache of more than 50 sports bras in her closet. She teaches racewalking clinics and gives private lessons, and she changes her workout clothes - and sports bras - several times a day.

Most of her bras are by Moving Comfort, a brand that tends to be pricey. But she also buys cheaper bras made by Champion.

Stein says she hasn’t bought a bad sports bra in years, but they’re out there. She recommends a low-tech method for discerning quality: In the dressing room, see how the bra fits, then do some jumping jacks or movements to simulate your sport.

Do you bounce? If the answer is yes, put that bra back on the sales rack.

Getting The Best Fit
When shopping for a sports bra, look for your size on labels, but try on several styles. Same-size bras can differ according to manufacturer. Pick the one that feels best.

Use this measuring guide (from titlenine.com) to find your correct size:
•Measure snugly around the rib cage, just underneath the breasts. Keep the tape straight around the chest.
•Add five inches to the above measurement; round off to nearest even number. This will give your bra width, such as 32 or 36.
•Measure around the fullest part of the bust. Keep the tape straight and taut but not overly tight. Round to the nearest whole number.
•Find your cup size by the difference in inches between the above chest and bust measurements. One inch equals A cup; 2 inches is B; 3 inches is C; 4 inches is D; and 5 inches is DD.
If this DIY method seems confusing, enlist the help of a trained bra-fitter in the lingerie section of a department store.

Find your size
Style: Sports bras “compress” or “encapsulate.” Bras that compress flatten breasts. Bras that encapsulate separate and define the breasts, more like a regular bra.
Cup size: Sports bras in exact sizes, such as 34C, can provide a better fit.

Bounce control: The tag should indicate which activities the bra is designed for and its support level. Lower-support sports bras are fine for yoga; medium support works for brisk walking. Go with high support for running.

Material: Fabrics like such as CoolMax or Double Dry wick away moisture and can be more comfortable than cotton.

Shoulder strap width: Wider shoulder straps offer more support and won’t slip.

Bottom band width: The bottom band should fit snugly but not be too tight.

Seams: Seamless bras and bras with outside seams will be easier on sensitive skin and are less likely to chafe. 

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